Once one of the centres of Cathar religion and culture, the town of Beziers in the southern region of Languedoc-Rousillion has more historical legends and stories attached to it than most French communities its size. A picturesque old quarter is complimented by the newer parts of the town, which have been thoughtfully designed, while the Canal du Midi, built in the 17th century, flows through the town, bringing tourists where it once brought commerce. In fact, boat trips along the canal are a very popular way to see Beziers and the surrounding countryside, though you will undoubtedly see more by exploring the narrow medieval streets on foot.
Situated in the highest part of the town, the Cathedral of Saint-Nazaire is one of Bezier's most identifiable buildings, thanks largely to its huge Gothic tower and the decorative rose window in the western wall. However, the cathedral is probably best known for its role in the massacre of thousands of Cathars by Catholic crusaders, who set the original building alight in the 13th century when many had taken refuge inside. There is a small exhibit in the cathedral about this episode and about the Cathar religion; although other towns in the region have more informative museums and presentations if you want to learn about this local culture before visiting its monuments and churches.
There are two “arenas” in Beziers, which are used for bull fighting during festivals in the town. Bull fighting is just as popular in south-west France as it is in Spain, although the arenas, one built in Roman times and the other modelled on Spanish bullrings in 1905, are used for other cultural events too. Beziers is also home to an impressive art gallery, featuring works by the local sculptor Jean Antoine Injalbert, as well as better known artists such as Holbein and van Gogh. Take a break from sightseeing in the formal gardens called the Plateau des Poetes. As well as being a pleasant green space in the town, it is also filled with sculptures of poets and a huge ornamental fountain, all created by Injalbert.
Just outside Beziers is the Oppidum d'Enserune, an archaeological site where remains of a settlement dating from the 6th century BC have been found. The town was still inhabited in Roman times, when it lay close to the via Dolmita, a major road between Spain and Italy that can also still be seen near the site. A small museum there features artefacts found in the dig over the years.
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